AC Kelly - The History of McLaren Vale Wine #2

AC Kelly: Original Wine Hero

AC Kelly: Original Wine Hero

Stephen Pannell. Current custodian of the the old vineyards Dr A. C. Kelly sold to Thomas Hardy in 1876, bits of old buildings and the remnants of an orchard. Photo Philip White; DRINKSTER

Stephen Pannell. Current custodian of the the old vineyards Dr A. C. Kelly sold to Thomas Hardy in 1876, bits of old buildings and the remnants of an orchard. Photo Philip White; DRINKSTER

To quote Dr A C Kelly from Winegrowing in Australia published in 1867 -

'The time has come when the winegrowers of this colony must bestir themselves and boldly face the difficulties before them. They must be prepared to take their stand on the ground already occupied by the experienced winegrowers of Europe. 

'All have a direct interest in each other's success, for according to the quality of wine produced for export will be our status as a winegrowing country. 

'No petty jealousies need stand in the way of that friendly rivalry to produce the best wine which ought to be the endeavour of each winegrower.'

Now here was a pioneer...

Alexander Charles Kelly (1811-1877), winegrower and medical practitioner, was born on 5 June 1811 at Leith, Scotland, son of John Kelly, agent of the British Linen Co.'s Bank, and his wife Margaret, née Porteus. Alexander was educated in France and Scotland, and studied medicine at the University of Edinburgh (M.D., 1832). After practicing briefly in Scotland, he became a surgeon aboard the East India Co. ship Kellie Castle; he kept a vividly written and illustrated journal of the voyage from England to Bengal in 1833.

Later, Kelly visited Canada, where he became interested in the problems of popular education, then returned to Scotland and practiced medicine at or near Dunbar. Perhaps inspired by his brother Thomas Bell Kelly, who had migrated to South Australia in 1839, he followed, arriving in the Baboo on 11 March 1840. Kelly was enrolled as the twelfth name in the medical register of South Australia and set up at Port Adelaide. In June 1842 he was made resident dispenser at Adelaide Hospital. He bought 80 acres (32.4 ha) of land west of Morphett Vale, south of Adelaide; the official title was dated 21 August 1843, although he probably occupied the land earlier. Here he built his home, Trinity, and planted his first vineyard, about 1845.

On 1 November 1854 Kelly married Annie Frances Worthington, in the Church of Scotland, Morphett Vale. He drew on the writings of French and other European authorities, which he translated and commented on, for his first book, The Vine in Australia (Melbourne, 1861); it introduced wine chemistry and modern science to Australian winegrowers and was so popular that it was reprinted next year. His Wine-Growing in Australia (Adelaide, 1867) followed. Kelly's two influential books did much to establish Australian technical expertise in viniculture.

In November 1862 he and five of Adelaide's businessmen—(Sir) Thomas and Alexander Lang Elder(Sir) Samuel DavenportRobert Barr Smith and (Sir) Edward Stirling—formed the Tintara Vineyard Co., with Kelly as manager. Next year he sold Trinity to concentrate on clearing the 213 acres (86.3 ha) of heavily-timbered country near McLaren Vale which the trustees had bought in December 1862, and on planting vines, building cellars and, eventually, making mainly table wine. In 1871 Tintara shareholders sent him to London to search for new markets. The difficulties of an English market more accustomed to the strong, coarse wines of Spain and Portugal, financial depression in the colony and intercolonial tariffs that disadvantaged South Australian wines contributed to the demise of the company. In September 1877 it was announced that Thomas Hardy had purchased the vineyard, with 27,000 gallons (122,742 litres) of wine. The land was not transferred to Hardy until June 1878.

In 1868 Kelly had given articulate evidence before a parliamentary select committee on education reflecting his long-standing interest in the subject. A photographic portrait of him later in life showed a clear, kindly, open face with silvery hair and a full white beard. In 1876 he retired to his home at Norwood, where he died of bronchitis on 9 October 1877. He was buried in Clayton Chapel cemetery, Kensington, survived by his wife, three daughters and two sons, one of whom (John) was involved in the wine industry. An obituarist noted Kelly's 'obliging disposition . . . his kindness to people in straitened circumstances . . . high character, benevolence, and kindly genial manner'.

2017 Vintage Report

Vintage report by James Hook


Lazy Ballerina wines made: Shiraz, Grenache, Viognier, & Non-Vintage Sparkling wines.


Vintage 2017 in the McLaren Vale Wine Region was judged highly successful for both grape growers, who had above average crops with minimal faults, and winemakers who had the ability to pick fruit as they required during an extended dry autumn.

The reported harvest from McLaren Vale was 44,287 tonnes in 2017, compared to 40,997 tonnes in 2016. Over the past five years, the average crush has been 33,901 tonnes. This year’s vintage was the largest in the past five years.

Winter weather conditions help set up the early growth of our vineyards with above average rainfall leading to full soil profiles.

Spring was also significantly wetter than average. There were notable large storms and high winds with frequent low-pressure fronts moving through the region. Fortunately, the weather patterns during flowering were relatively stable and dry. Spring air temperatures were cooler than average and flowering was delayed by 14-21 days compared to recent seasons, while veraison was also delayed.

Harvest began later than in 2016, with very few vineyards picked in February, with picking continuing into late April.

There was one significant rain event of approximately 25mm in the first week of February. Fortunately, this did not cause widespread berry splitting and Botrytis levels remained low in the aftermath. Weather conditions during March were stable, with little natural rainfall, although there were some morning dews.

Autumn continued to be warm and dry through early April allowing almost all vineyards to be successfully harvested.

The earlier picked red vineyards, including Shiraz and Tempranillo, have been described as having good fruit characters; winemaking reports are they are lively, bright, spicy, vibrant, and elegant. Towards the end of vintage, parcels of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre were described as excellent examples of these grape styles.

Easter Holiday Tips

Got some time off this Easter? Here are our tips for what to do in the McLaren Vale region. We have a listed of our picks of attractions open in 2016.

Good Friday can traditionally be a tricky day for those on holidays as the 'shops are shut.'

We have some good news! Hugh Hamilton Wines, Fox Creek Wines and Magpie Springs - wine.art.coffee are OPEN! All great locations for a wine and family day out. Make sure to book though.

In the evening why not book a table at INDOMEX, Indian for us, why not for you? It is open for dinner til late. 

Saturday: Why not start the day with a walk along the beach? Our favourite is starting at Port Willunga and walking north along the shore and cliff edges towards Maslins Beach. 

For lunch why not visit Waywood Wines. Then you can either visit Olivers Taranga (wine bar), Beach Road (magnificently family friendly), Maxwell Wines or Bekkers Wines (both producers of some of our regions flagship wines) all of which are a short distance from each other. 

Bekkers Wine - https://bekkerswine.com/

Bekkers Wine - https://bekkerswine.com/

If you want to have a relaxed dinner, head back to the beach this time Aldinga and pick up some Indian takeway from Arbind at The Aldinga Bay Cafe (The Esplanade Aldinga Beach). Eat it on the beach as the sun goes down. 

Easter Sunday: Ditch the car and hire bikes for the day (Oxygen cycles, Main Rd McLaren Vale). You can travel up the Shiraz Way bike path in the morning and shoot up to Pertaringa Wines on Rifle Range Rd.  

Pertaringa offers a natural setting among gum trees with views and outdoor picnic facilities. They can put together a platter so you don't have to carry any food with you.

For dinner The BARN is open.  

Magpie Springs- http://magpiesprings.com.au/

Easter Monday: Take your car up to Kuitpo for a bush walk and then come and relax at either Lazy Ballerina, K1 by Geoff Hardy or Top Note to end your weekend. All of these are a short drive from the forest. All recommended!

Tip: Remember if you are buying wine and don't want to lug it around. Cellar doors are very accommodating with shipping your wine to you. Just explain your situation and the staff will work out a solution for you. 

Tell them that James & Miri sent you!

The view at Top Note Wines - https://www.topnote.com.au/contact.php

The view at Top Note Wines - https://www.topnote.com.au/contact.php

What is Botrytis? Is it good for wine?

James Hook answers one of the common winemaking questions using his experience in Viticulture (Adelaide Uni) and wine (WSET).


Botrytis is, in almost all cases 'bad' for wine grapes. There is on very specific wine style that is can help, called "Noble rot".

Firstly "Noble Rot" and "Botrytis Bunch Rot"  in grapes are both caused by the same organism - Botrytis cinerea. Often in photographs both rots will look the same the difference being one is considered a problem the other a desirable trait!

Grapes are susceptible to this fungus as they ripen and produce sugar. Generally it causes a bunch rot that is bad for grape quality, it turns grapes mouldy, as mention above commonly known as "Bunch Rot", "Botrytis Rot" or "Grey Rot". It also creates conditions favorable for the growth of other nastiness like yeast, mould, and bacteria are we call secondary rots. These rots are even worse for grape quality with some being toxic!

The beginning of a Botrytis infection in Sauvignon Blanc.

The beginning of a Botrytis infection in Sauvignon Blanc.

Under certain ideal microclimatic conditions the fungus causes "Noble Rot", which is responsible for the production of some of the world's finest sweet white wines, and not as severe as what is pictured above. "Noble Rot" dries out fruit rather than turns it mouldy. The key is the weather conditions during infection and then what occurs as the fruit matures.

Development of Noble Rot

Temperature and humidity are the two critical factors influencing the development of "Noble Rot". During the botrytis infection phase, a temperature of 20-25°C and a relative humidity of 85-95% for a maximum of 24 hours are considered desirable. Once the infection has occurred the relative humidity should drop below 60%. This drop in humidity is a key factor in dehydration of the infected berries.

In Sauternes, France botrytis slowly develops into noble rot on ripe grapes and gives the wine unique aromas, colour, and flavour. Note the golden colour of grapes changing to grey as the infection increases - http://www.myquem.com/noble-r…

In Sauternes, France botrytis slowly develops into noble rot on ripe grapes and gives the wine unique aromas, colour, and flavour. Note the golden colour of grapes changing to grey as the infection increases - http://www.myquem.com/noble-rot/

During the course of development the botrytis penetrates the grape skin. The skin becomes permeable but does not split. This condition facilitates drying of the berries. The loss of water from the berries leads to the concentration of sugar and other constituents like flavour. The osmotic pressure inside the berry increases, consequently the metabolic activity of the fungus decreases. The limited activity of this mould causes certain changes in the fruit which enable vintners to produce unique and prestigious sweet white wines.

In simple terms the botrytis only infects the grape on the surface and sucks the water out of it leaving a concentrated berry behind that makes a unique wine. 

Development of Bunch Rot

Following infection by Botrytis, if the relative humidity remains high, and drying of the berries does not occur, the fungus continues to grow and produce certain undesirable changes in the fruit. The berries swell and burst. This splitting of the berry makes it susceptible to attack by other spoilage organisms, especially molds and acetic acid bacteria. 

Botrytis on Shiraz in McLaren Vale 2011. Note the severe rot. High levels of botrytis in red grape varieties cause unstable wine fermentation and other taints that are not desirable.

Botrytis on Shiraz in McLaren Vale 2011. Note the severe rot. High levels of botrytis in red grape varieties cause unstable wine fermentation and other taints that are not desirable.

How do winemakers make Noble Rot wine?

The natural weather helps. 

Sauternes is probably the best known region that makes wine botrytis. Botrytis takes advantage of autumn weather patterns specific that region. The Sauternes region is located 40 km (25 mi) southeast of the city of Bordeaux along the Garonne river and its tributary, the Ciron.  The source of the Ciron is a spring which has cooler waters than the Garonne. The different temperatures from the two rivers meet to produce mist that descends upon the vineyards from evening to late morning.  By mid day, the warm sun dissipates the mist and dry the grapes to keep them from developing less favorable rotThe humidity is high in the morning and low during the day. 

The Ciron genteelly meeting the Garonne.

The Ciron genteelly meeting the Garonne.

Other regions have weather that replicates this pattern of morning mists then dry weather. Internationally renowned botrytised wines include the aszú of Tokay-Hegyalja in Hungary and Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese wines from Germany and Austria. 

Botrytis has also been imported for use by winemakers in California and Australia. In some cases inoculation occurs when spores are sprayed over the grapes, while some vineyards depend on natural inoculation from spores present in the environment. Growers are then relying on dry weather with low humidity to 'hold' the botrytis infection and keep it at a Noble Rot level.

References
Ribereau-Gayon, P. 1988. Botrytis: Advantages and Disadvantages for Producing Quality Wines. Proceedings of the Second International Cool Climate Viticulture and Oenology Symposium. Auckland, New Zealand, pp. 319-323.

Yquem website - http://www.myquem.com/noble-rot/

Vintage 2017 - in season update.

Wet winter has vintage on track.

McLaren Vale Agronomist and Winemaker James Hook said his region was running about three weeks behind recent years, making it more akin to typical seasons in the 1990s, meaning most of the grapes will be picked in March.

“As soon as the weather got warm they grew very quickly so they probably did two month’s worth of growth in one month – it’s really accelerated growth because they had a belly full of water in winter and spring and it took a long time for the weather to warm up,” he said.

“We’re looking at a larger vintage again like last year.

“If the summer doesn’t turn into a scorching heatwave I think it will be a very good year. At the moment the Bureau of Meteorology is predicting average conditions so if that happens over the next two or three months it will be good for quantity and quality, which both sides of the market like – the grape growers get good tonnage and the consumer likes it as well because they get good wine.

“People are fairly optimistic and from a weather point of view if we get average weather from here it will be a good year.”

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Vale Cru

Inviting you to our Vale Cru Long Lunch lunch at the Victory Hotel on November 20th.

Four course menu, 16 wines, great company - $100 pp.

TRYBOOKING LINK:

https://www.trybooking.com/Booking/BookingEventSummary.aspx?eid=236198I

 Lazy Ballerina: With James Hook, Miriam Bourne and daughter Emmaline

 Lazy Ballerina: With James Hook, Miriam Bourne and daughter Emmaline

What is one of the wines you will you present?

The 2010 Lazy Ballerina Shiraz

What can we expect?
This is a very good example of a mature Shiraz that’s had five years of bottle age. It’s half way through its ageing; you could open it in another five years and it will still be very drinkable.

I chose this wine because it’s a typical McLaren Vale Shiraz with blackcurrant, red and dark fruit characters. And 2010 was an uncomplicated growing season, it wasn’t too harsh on the vines. No heat waves and no serious rain events. It was an enjoyable wine to make and it’s an enjoyable wine to drink.

What are you looking forward to?
Seeing all the different years and different styles – and an opportunity to be part of the tasting experience.

Other years we’ve held exhibitions but this year, with the format being a long lunch, we can taste each other’s wine and share that experience with guests.

Many of the wines were made in tiny qualities, so they’re just not around much, so I’m looking forward to having the opportunity to seeing what they’re like.

Why does McLaren Vale Shiraz taste like chocolate?
All the flavours in wine come from either the grapes themselves, the barrel or the yeast.

Soil?
Soil influences everything, but it’s not like the soil tastes like chocolate; it’s not a direct flavour that gets dug out of the ground. It’s a complicated flavour that isn’t attributed to one source. And neither is chocolate. That’sa combination of dairy and beans.
Fruit, oak and yeast: when you see that chocolate flavour in our wines you’re getting a combination of these elements.